Expedition Poke-Everest, Day 0: I’m doomed.

“This is going to be a difficult hike for you,” our orientation guide said, looking at Dustin. “And it’s going to be an extremely difficult hike for you,” he said, turning his attention to me.

I wanted to be offended, but he was obviously not wrong. … More Expedition Poke-Everest, Day 0: I’m doomed.

Canoeing and Camping in Voyageurs National Park

And then we found the real current. Between the current and the wind, we were suddenly fighting actual waves. My rowing muscles, which had been born only that morning, started to howl. As we came around the first knob of Mica Island, making progress against the shore at a rate of two inches per paddle stroke, I began wailing along with them. … More Canoeing and Camping in Voyageurs National Park

Seven Days on the Appalachian Trail: Stats! (and other lessons)

And finally, let’s talk about trail names. Everyone on the AT gets one. It can be bestowed upon you by another hiker, or you can invent your own. There are no rules, and some people skip it all together. I studied the names scribbled on graffiti boards in the various shelters and have been amused by the huge variety out there. “Sticky Buns” is my current favorite. … More Seven Days on the Appalachian Trail: Stats! (and other lessons)

Seven Days on the Appalachian Trail, Day 7: we arrive unscathed in Damascus!

“When I ask if you’d want to do this with us again,” I told Hobz, “what you should do is say, ‘of course I would! you guys are great hiking buddies!’, but then you should feel free to invent an excuse to be unable to meet us when it actually comes up next time. That way we can all stay friends.” … More Seven Days on the Appalachian Trail, Day 7: we arrive unscathed in Damascus!

Seven Days on the Appalachian Trail, Day 6: sunshine, hornets, people

Our hike today was incredibly laid-back. Well, except for how I forgot to refill my water before we left the hostel on a day with maybe no opportunities to refill so that we had to skim water off the top of a stagnant spring, and those two times we walked past hornet nests. … More Seven Days on the Appalachian Trail, Day 6: sunshine, hornets, people

Seven Days on the Appalachian Trail, Day 4: rain, moonlight, and sharing pants

“Are there rules?” I asked Hobz, imagining how this would have played out if we had arrived to find six people already in residence.

“No pitching your tent inside the shelter,” he said. “That’s about it.” Stories he told us over the next few days would help me understand that, if we had turned up to find the shelter already full, we would have just asked everyone to scoot over and wedged ourselves in, sad little sardines on a wooden shelf. You get real cozy with strangers on the Appalachian Trail. … More Seven Days on the Appalachian Trail, Day 4: rain, moonlight, and sharing pants

Seven Days on the Appalachian Trail, Day 3: my hummingbird heart gets me there

With my watch registering 7.2 miles hiked (thank gods!! only another mile to go!!) we called a break for lunch.

Hobz reviewed our progress on the trail map. “Three miles left,” he said, squinting doubtfully at the clock and then at my stupid backpack.

“Three…. whole… miles?” I whimpered. My watch is a vile traitor. I know it gives me more credit than I deserve, but this was ridiculous. I somehow managed to keep my weeping on the inside. … More Seven Days on the Appalachian Trail, Day 3: my hummingbird heart gets me there

Seven Days on the Appalachian Trail, Day 2: less wet, more raccoons

Hobz was already out on the AT, and he would be arriving here at the end of a 16-mile day. I sent him a nervous text message, encouraging him to walk JUST A LITTLE FASTER because we didn’t know what to do in this rather creepy neck of the Tennessee forest. … More Seven Days on the Appalachian Trail, Day 2: less wet, more raccoons