And then we found the real current. Between the current and the wind, we were suddenly fighting actual waves. My rowing muscles, which had been born only that morning, started to howl. As we came around the first knob of Mica Island, making progress against the shore at a rate of two inches per paddle stroke, I began wailing along with them. … More Canoeing and Camping in Voyageurs National Park
After all the (self-inflicted) stress and tears of planning this trip to America’s most Canada-adjacent National Park, the adventure itself went off entirely without a hitch, and it was a gorgeous, only slightly painful adventure. In this first installment, we make our way successfully to Kettle Falls. Or maybe one hitch? The night we spent … More Voyageurs National Park: A visit to Kettle Falls Hotel
This is a somewhat lengthy narrative about the trouble I had making plans to go canoeing and camping in Voyageurs National Park. If you have money burning holes in your pockets, you will not have the same trouble I had. If you’re trying to plan a canoeing trip in Voyageurs on a budget, this blog … More Planning a camping trip to Voyageurs National Park is not for the faint-hearted
And perhaps it was “only” two miles, but by the end of it I was carefully making sure to always stay within view of passing cars so that if I keeled over from heat stroke, someone would see me go down and hopefully call for help. … More Walking to Arlington National Cemetery on a Hot, Hot Day
“When I ask if you’d want to do this with us again,” I told Hobz, “what you should do is say, ‘of course I would! you guys are great hiking buddies!’, but then you should feel free to invent an excuse to be unable to meet us when it actually comes up next time. That way we can all stay friends.” … More Seven Days on the Appalachian Trail, Day 7: we arrive unscathed in Damascus!
Our hike today was incredibly laid-back. Well, except for how I forgot to refill my water before we left the hostel on a day with maybe no opportunities to refill so that we had to skim water off the top of a stagnant spring, and those two times we walked past hornet nests. … More Seven Days on the Appalachian Trail, Day 6: sunshine, hornets, people
“I feel crunchy today,” I mumbled over my oatmeal, which I was eating hydrated compliments of last night’s rainstorm.
“Crunchy in your clothes, or your soul?” Hobz asked. … More Seven Days on the Appalachian Trail, Day 5: hermit graves & wild mushrooms
“Are there rules?” I asked Hobz, imagining how this would have played out if we had arrived to find six people already in residence.
“No pitching your tent inside the shelter,” he said. “That’s about it.” Stories he told us over the next few days would help me understand that, if we had turned up to find the shelter already full, we would have just asked everyone to scoot over and wedged ourselves in, sad little sardines on a wooden shelf. You get real cozy with strangers on the Appalachian Trail. … More Seven Days on the Appalachian Trail, Day 4: rain, moonlight, and sharing pants
With my watch registering 7.2 miles hiked (thank gods!! only another mile to go!!) we called a break for lunch.
Hobz reviewed our progress on the trail map. “Three miles left,” he said, squinting doubtfully at the clock and then at my stupid backpack.
“Three…. whole… miles?” I whimpered. My watch is a vile traitor. I know it gives me more credit than I deserve, but this was ridiculous. I somehow managed to keep my weeping on the inside. … More Seven Days on the Appalachian Trail, Day 3: my hummingbird heart gets me there
We promptly stripped off every piece of clothing we were wearing, wrung five or six cups of water out into the trash can, then hung them up to dry. I then pulled my even-wetter backup outfit out of my backpack, poured about two inches of water out of the bottom of the backpack, and decided to go to dinner wrapped in a bedsheet. … More Seven Days on the Appalachian Trail, Day 1: there should be an ark around here somewhere?
Thither & Yon 