Black Hills Winter Hiking: Cathedral Spires in January

Posted on by snukes
A horizontal landscape shot looking out from a high vantage point in the Black Hills. The slopes leading down show patches of granite through thick pine trees. In the distance the hills level out to sunlit prairie.

Sometimes in January (or February or December or March), the weather in the Black Hills gets to be danged-near springlike, and you get the idea that you ought to go outside and enjoy yourself.

“Hey! It’s going to be 65 degrees tomorrow! Let’s go for a hike!”

And then you pick a hike you’ve been wanting to do for a long time. You drive down to Custer State Park, and then you realize that 65 degrees in Rapid City does not necessarily translate to 65 degrees anywhere else in the Hills.

You go hiking anyway, because even 45 degrees is pretty pleasant in the southern Hills, and you came adequately prepared.

Or did you?

Since “you” in this case equals “me,” the answer is yes. But if YOU-you are new to winter hiking, I thought I’d pass along some tips to do it as safely and comfortably as possible, only a few of which I learned the hard way. Also I’ll show off some of Dustin’s pretty photos of the Needles.

A cluster of granite spires lit by the sun and framed by dark pine trees.

Make sure someone knows where you’re going and when to expect you back.

A number of factors make winter hiking more challenging than fair-weather hiking, any one of which could land you in unexpected trouble. The rest of the items on this list are geared at helping you avoid that trouble, but if worse comes to the worst, you want to make sure someone knows when to start worrying about you, and where to look for you. Even IF you have a cell phone signal – which you should not depend upon even if the coverage map says you’re good – do this one, very easy thing. A quick text message to a friend is all it takes.

Don’t count on your phone to provide a trail map or contact with the outside world.

Data coverage is awfully comprehensive these days, and most of us take for granted that we’ll be able to whip out our phones to check whether to turn right or left at a fork in the trail. DON’T DO IT. Yes, you may have a signal for part of your hike, but that’s not likely, and there will be forks in the trail you need to know how to choose. An up-to-date printed map is always your safest choice, but at the VERY least, make sure to download the map on your phone so you can access it even without a signal. And bring an extra battery.

Depending on how much snow we’re talking, you also may not be able to rely on trail signs. If you cannot see trail signs or blazes, you may still be able to follow the trail stomped down by others. You may not be able to trust that the tracks you are following are the official trail, though. In cases where signage is missing, if you don’t know how to use a map and compass, you might consider choosing a different hike.

Laura stands with her body facing away from the camera and head turned back to look at the camera with a smirk on her face. Behind her, a fir forest is deeply blanketed by snow. Footprints show a trail leading into the distance. In the foreground, where the footprints begin, the top of a wooden trail sign peeks out of the snow. It is illegible, but its height suggests the snow is probably three feet deep.
Different hike in a different place (the Rockies), but a good illustration of the point. Sometimes, not even the top of the sign will be poking out of the snow.

Wear (or at least bring) adequate winter right gear.

We hiked on a 45-degree day. We could hear the snow melting all around us, and the sun was warm on our faces. Then we walked under tree cover into the shadows and winter was back upon us.

A portrait of Laura wearing a head band covered by a baseball cap covered by the hood of her jacket. She looks warm. The background of Black Hills granite and pine trees is out of focus.
My multi-hat approach is the best. I’ll fight you.

Many trails – especially in Custer State Park – are well-shaded, and the sun is not always a reliable companion anyway. Even if the day starts out as a magical 65-degrees (which it sometimes does here in the winter!) bring all your essential gear anyway: hat, gloves, jacket, thick wooly socks, and waterproof boots. If you get too warm, you can always stow unwanted layers in your backpack, but if the weather takes a turn, you can’t add layers you haven’t brought.

I hike in a headband to cover my ears, a baseball cap to shade my eyes, and count on the hood of my jacket for extra head and neck coverage. I keep a light pair of gloves in my coat pockets all winter, and keep a sturdier pair of snow gloves tucked into my backpack. I am also a fan of fleece-lined pants, but I’m half reptile so I’ll leave that one on the optional list.

Waterproof boots are a must. Microspikes or crampons are well worth considering.

A close-up photo of Laura's boots as she stands in barely any snow. The toes of the boots are wet and somehow covered in snow despite its lack of depth.
Waterproof footwear is made for hiking conditions like this. It does not matter how shallow the snow appears: your toes will be wet before you know it.

If you can see snow from anyplace on your hike, your feet will get wet. It doesn’t matter how dry the trail looks at the trailhead, all hiking in Custer State Park involves some elevation gain and the snow is destined to turn up eventually. Even if there’s barely an inch on the ground, your feet will get wet. For me, nothing is more miserable than wet, frozen toes, and if the temperature suddenly drops, wet toes can literally freeze. Not worth the risk.

If you don’t own any waterproof boots, consider picking up a waterproofing spray to apply to your existing boots. It isn’t a perfect product, but it can help.

Strap-on spikes for your boots are a wonder if the trail is snow-packed or icy. Most well-traveled trails in the Black Hills can be hiked without these on a pleasant day, but when the weather is gnarlier than usual, when you have a lot of up-hill and down-hill to cover, or if it’s just been a snowy, snowy year, spikes will make your hike a lot easier. Hiking poles can also be a real bonus for aiding with balance.

A closeup of Dustin pulling on microspikes over his boots.
Carry your spikes on your pack as long as the going is mostly clear. Pull them on when the going gets icy. In January in the Black Hills? Don’t be surprised if they come on and off a few times along the trail.

Microspikes (what Dustin is pulling on over his boots in that photo) will be sufficient for most kinds of casual winter hiking. They provide a grip on ice and traction against packed or slushy snow. You can walk on dry, soft ground with them, though it’s not a great idea if it can be avoided, and walking on any hard surface (pavement, rocks) is a slipping hazard. Crampons have much more serious spikes and should never ever be used on dry ground, which will damage the spikes (and almost certainly your ankles).

Dustin picks his way down a slope toward the camera. The slope has well-worn foot tracks, and is covered with snow and rocks.
It’s a bit tough to see how steep this slope is, but icy downhill stretches are the bits where you’ll be most happy to have spikes. Don’t have spikes? Take your time!
Laura sits at the top of a steep, boulder-covered slope, removing her microspikes. There is no snow anywhere to be seen.
You can get away with wearing your spikes on ice, packed snow, even on slushy/muddy ground, but sometimes, the boulders win and you just have to take the spikes off.
Laura walks along a snowy trail with many footprints tracked into it, carrying her microspikes. She looks over her left shoulder out at a view of dark granite and trees.
And I guarantee five minutes later you’ll be back in the snow wondering whether to put them on again. Some winter days you won’t have to play this game – but in the Black Hills on a day that feels nice enough to inspire a hike? Just consider it part of the exercise.

Wear sun protection.

Your mama probably told you: you can get sunburned even on a cloudy day, and that’s extra true if there’s shiny snow all around, reflecting those solar danger-rays back up at you. Sun glasses, brimmed hat, and a little sunscreen on your nose and cheeks can be your savior from suffering.

Be extremely cautious around fresh-fallen snow.

If snow has freshly fallen, you need to consider your hike much more carefully than any other time. Fresh snow will obscure the trail, the trail markers, and all manners of dangerous footing. If there’s a lot of fresh-fallen snow, you should probably consider snow-shoeing rather than hiking, and you should also go find someone else to give you advice, because I am not your expert there.

Laura, dressed in heavy winter coat, walks away from the camera through snow that comes above her knees. Her arms are outstretched for balance. She is surrounded by spruce trees likewise covered in snow.
Breaking fresh snow in hiking boots is also a LOT of work.

If the amount of snow fallen doesn’t deter your enthusiasm to hike, though, be especially confident of your ability to route-find (again, without relying on a cell phone signal) and be especially cautious of your footing. Some trails are carved deeply into the surrounding terrane, and you can easily find yourself – surprise! – knee-deep in snow that only appeared to be an inch or two deep. (Or hip-deep. Ask me how I know.)

Dustin stands center, in front of a large granite wall, looking toward the right side of the photo. He has left a row of footprints in the snow along the trail which show deep shadows because the snow is very deep. Gravel beside the snow suggests the snow should not have been so deep.
This snow wasn’t viciously deep, but its depth was still a surprise because it appears to be flush with the surrounding ground-level.

Hiking poles (without snow baskets) can be used to prod suspicious snow patches, but doing a lot of this can get exhausting. If you don’t have much practice hiking in the snow, consider rescheduling until after the more experienced (or foolish) hikers have had a chance to re-tramp the trails.

A wide photo that appears to be black and white, but isn't quite. Laura stands at the bottom right, quite a distance away. She is looking out across the rest of the photo, which shows a field of white snow interrupted by occasional black boulders, with a distant background of steep, rocky slopes. In places, the depth of the snow drifts can be seen by the shadows they leave. Some are probably more than ten feet tall.
Such beauty! Much hazards!

Bring easy-to-eat snacks.

If the weather is chilly, stopping for a break to rummage through your backpack and open complicated snacks can give your body temperature the chance to drop uncomfortably. Pack your pockets before you leave so you can munch on the run.

You deserve to stop for breaks, too, of course. This tip just helps make sure you do that because you want to and not because you lost your snickers bar.

Drink your water!!

A cold hike will not inspire thirst the way a hot, August hike will, but your body is still using its water reserves, even more so to help keep you warm. A good rule of thumb is 1 liter for every 2 hours you plan to be out. And yes, you can bring hot beverages instead of regular cold water (or even just warm up your water before packing!). Anything except alcohol will keep you hydrated, as long as you remember to actually drink it.

And no, you can’t just eat snow if you’re thirsty. That’s a quick way to put your body temperature in the danger zone, even IF you didn’t have to worry about how many raccoons have peed on it. (ALL OF THEM.)

Plan to finish hiking before sunset.

Laura walks away from the camera along a snow-covered trail toward a sun that sits low on the horizon. To both sides the trail is lined with pine trees of many sizes. A very tall granite spire rises in the distance on the left.

Dark can turn up rather fast in a South Dakota winter, and temperatures can drop with alarming speed after the sun goes down. Loss of visibility and plunging temps will make already-challenging terrane much more dangerous. Know what time the sun will set and know your skill level when you plan the start-time of the hike. It’s not a bad idea to anticipate a winter hike taking twice as much time as the same hike would take in summer.

Maybe you want to watch the sun set from the trail? Great! Consider doing it from a part of the trail where you can also see your car.

Laura stands with her back to the camera on a paved road that has been covered in snow that is now well trampled by many feet. Granite walls line both sides of the road, but in the distance beyond the road, orange bands of sunset can be seen. The light glints off ice under patches of snow.
Cut this one a little closer than optimal. At least we were on a road by now and unlikely to get lost.

And now a few extra tips that are specific to hiking in Custer State Park in the winter, and a few more scenic photos from our hike.

HIKING CATHEDRAL SPIRES IN WINTER

Trailhead: Sylvan Lake parking lot, starting along Needles Highway where it is barricaded against motorized traffic
Distance: 5.5 miles out-and-back or looped with a portion of Little Devil’s Tower trail (#4)
Elevation Gain: ~600 feet
Difficulty: moderately challenging in winter conditions

Needles Highway is closed in the winter, so you’ll have to hike to the trailhead.

Laura leans on a red-and-white striped barricade bearing a sign that reads "ROAD CLOSED". The road in question is completely covered in snow with dark pine trees on either side.

Regardless of the weather on any given day, Needles Highway is closed all winter. No plow yet invented can make it around those hairpin turns or through the needle-eye tunnels, so the state simply gives it up as a lost cause from October through April.

Practically speaking, this means that for all the trails around Black Elk Peak, you will have to park at Sylvan Lake and venture forth from there, which can add noticeable mileage to your hike.

The Cathedral Spires trailhead, in this case, is located about 2 miles past the barricade, making the normally 1.6-mile moderately challenging hike into a 5.6-mile challenging hike.

Exactly how challenging the hike will be depends entirely on the weather and your preparedness.

Laura walks up a sunny road with granite boulders and pine trees on either side. The road is clear in the foreground but begins to be covered with snow in the distances.
This part isn’t challenging. Well. Not in weather like this, anyway.

From Sylvan Lake, you can do Cathedral Spires as a loop or an out-and-back.

For the Cathedral Spires trail, you can choose to hike two miles along the road each way, or you can turn off onto the Little Devils Tower Trail (also marked as Trail #4) and make the hike a loop. Since I always prefer loops over out-and-backs, this was our choice today. The turnoff to join the Little Devils Tower trail arrives on the left-hand side about .5 miles up the road.

A very bad map showing the route described in this blog post.
The yellow star is parking, the green line is the official route along the highway to the Cathedral Spires Trail (red), and the blue line is the optional section of Little Devil’s Tower Trail (Trail #4) that can be used to turn the hike into a loop.
Laura stands facing the camera a little distance away. The ground is covered in a light layer of snow with spruce trees on all sides. A horizontal stripe behind her indicates the road which she just turned off.
This photo is taken at the Little Devil’s Tower cutoff, where we’ve just turned off the highway (visible behind me).
Dustin stands center, looking off to the left. He is on a dry, sandy patch with large granite boulders behind him and evergreen trees in the background. The sky is very blue with a few clouds on the horizon.
Dustin standing on top of the ridge that is the first high elevation point. Not too much snow where the sun shines.

You’ll hit two elevation high points if you take the LDT trail to get to the Cathedral Spires – one halfway along the LDT trail where you can look out and see everything the light touches, and the second at the terminus of the trail. Take many moments along the way to soak in the view.

An entire hillside composed of weathered granite lit by the sun. In the background a dark tree-covered slope, and beyond that the flatter land of the prairies stretches into the distance.

As you continue along the LDT trail, the trail will split a number of times. Until you reach the trail VERY clearly marked “Cathedral Spires,” always take the right-hand fork.

Dustin stands in the middle distance at a Y in the trail. He is pointing toward the right fork of the Y, looking back over his shoulder at the camera. The trails are covered with snow and surrounded by dark trees.
Do what the nice man says! Go Right!

If snow has freshly fallen and you’re not confident in your navigation skills, I recommend doing an out-and-back along the road rather than risking losing the trail altogether because there weren’t any footprints to follow.

Looking along a snow-covered trail toward evergreens lit by the sun. A wood sign at center reads "CATHEDRAL SPIRES" and features arrows pointing to both sides.

Unless there’s feet and feet of snow, the intersection with the Cathedral Spires trail is hard to miss. Take a left (uphill, in case you’re directionally challenged like me) and head to the trail terminus. Now you should REALLY not forget to pause often and appreciate your surroundings, because this is it: you are in the Cathedral Spires. They are all around you from here out.

The same sign as from the photo above, but taken from the other side toward the shaded half of the trail. From this side the sign reads "TO TRAIL 4" and points right.
If you happen to be doing this hike in reverse from the direction described here, this is the turnoff you want to take onto Trail 4, which becomes the Little Devil’s Tower trail.
Sunlit granite spires shoot up toward the sky in four main clusters with pine trees clustered at their base, looking quite small in comparison. Laura stands at the very bottom of the photo, clearly much closer to the camera than the granite but still looking very small as well.
Granite spires lit by the sun.
Granite spires where a bit has toppled so that it looks like crossed fingers.
A photo of a granite spire taken from between two other granite spires. The most distant spire is in focus, with the two framing it fuzzy.
Even more granite spires!
Just a few of my gorgeous granite friends.
A selfie of Laura and Dustin standing in front of a tree bearing a sign that reads "END OF TRAIL". Laura holds up a hand in a shrug to say "oh well," Dustin smiles like a normal person.

The Cathedral Spires trail has a fixed terminus. Congratulations, you have seen all the spires! They’ll look different going out, though, so keep admiring.

When you reach the Cathedral Spires Trailhead, follow the road going uphill.

A photo of a hairpin turn in a road, taken from the bend of the pin. On the left, the road leads away from the camera going downhill. On the right, the road leads away from the camera going uphill. The road is covered with snow and footprints.

Standing with your back to the Cathedral Spires trailhead sign, you’ll find two roads which diverge in a yellow wood (just kidding it’s one road going two ways and the wood is rather black). You feel like you’ve been going uphill a lot, so you should get to go downhill now. You are wrong.

Head uphill from here. This way lies the car and that makes all the difference.

(Unimpressed with my Robert Frost allusions? It’s okay. Me too.)

Laura stands a distance from the camera, facing the camera, legs spread apart on a snow-covered road with granite spires in the background. She looks tired or annoyed or maybe both.
The road can be incredibly icy. And it’s uphill. Don’t give up! Your partner should not have to carry you out.
A wall of granite is interrupted by a nearly-rectangular black hole into which the road disappears. A sign posted on the granite outside the tunnel reads "NEEDLE'S EYE TUNNEL".

You will be rewarded for your efforts by getting to walk through Needles Eye Tunnel.

This photo is taken from the road looking directly into Needle's Eye Tunnel, which Laura is standing in the middle of with her legs and arms stretched out to show how big she is. Or, rather, how tiny the tunnel is. It's hard to believe a car could fit through there. A slot of light - the needle's eye - can be seen at the tunnel's far end.

It really is as skinny as it looks.

A granite spire that looks a whole heck of a lot more like a needle's eye than that tunnel did. The spire appears to be 50 or 60 feet tall. An interpretive sign can be seen at its base but is too small to read. In the background, a stripe of orange sunset shows on the horizon.
Now THAT’s more like a needle’s eye.

The last two miles along the road feels long, especially if it’s half-ice, half-clear and you have to keep changing in and out of your spikes or trying to walk in the snow off the edge of the road. We would probably have done fine without the spikes at this point, but a few bits of the road were incredibly icy after having had sun all day and now being in shadow. Yet one more reason to plan to conclude your hike while the sun still shines.

In addition to all the gorgeous views that offer a different perspective from summer hikes, winter hikes offer the benefit of very thin crowds, even on the most lovely days. This is peaceful, on its own, but also means the wildlife might be more likely to come out and say hi. We saw several deer on this trail, and this little guy who wouldn’t quite pose, but still offered us a very nice silhouette.

A dark blue evening sky provides light for the profile of some granite peaks in the background and a bird sitting on a thin branch in the foreground.

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