The Great Southwest Trip: the good, the fine, the bad, the ugly

We’ve been home for a couple weeks now and have had a little time to reflect on our trip. If we got to do it over again, would we do anything differently? Was there anything so awesome we’d do exactly the same thing again? Here are is a little collection of highlights and a very few dim points from our visits to the National Parks of Arizona, Utah, and bits of Colorado.

THE GOOD.

I mean… let’s be honest. I’d just have to re-write all my blog posts if I wanted to fully detail the Good. This trip was amazing. We saw and learned so many new things I can hardly shake a stick at all of them. Instead of getting too detaily, then, I’m going to pick a handful of stand-out highlights.

Saguaro Cacti. Maybe this is just me, but having never seen a saguaro before, I was bowled over by how cool and impressive these bad boys are. I could (and did) stare at them for miles.

Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. After hiking the gorgeous trails here, I was baffled about how Organ Pipe Cactus is only a National Monument and not a full-blown National Park. To me, it has all the magnificent saguaro of Saguaro NP, with the added bonus of organ pipe cacti, which are SO COOL. Being so far south and at least two hours from Phoenix and Tucson, it also has the advantage of being uncrowded. We had almost the entirety of the hiking trails we tried completely to ourselves. When I informed my dad that I wanted to formally petition to get the park a promotion, he told me there was no chance it would ever happen, given border security issues. Don’t worry about it, little park. You’ll always be an NP in my heart.

Hiking to the bottom of the Grand Canyon. In fact, everything about the Grand Canyon is impressive. Apparently some people are capable of coming here and being underwhelmed, but HOW?! And nothing brings the scale of the place, its vast immensity, into perspective like going to the bottom. You can take a mule, yes, and the views will be the same, but I suspect there’s something extra humbling about going down on your own feet. Coming up on your own feet provides a sense of accomplishment like few I’ve ever felt.

 

 

Slot canyons. Slot canyons can be found all over this part of the country (southern Utah particularly), and we got to explore them personally in Vermillion Cliffs NM and Capitol Reef NP. To me, not even the walls of the Grand Canyon spoke of the power of water the way these places did. It’s like walking through art.

 

 

Angel’s Landing in Zion National Park. This item makes both the Good and Bad lists, but the good was SO good. I’ve never done a more terrifying hike and rarely seen such an impressive view. The combination of the two is incredibly rewarding.

 

Pie from Gifford House in Capitol Reef National Park. The park was also amazing, right? But the pie was next level. Fun fact: taking the pie on a hike and eating it along the way makes it even tastier. I can personally vouch for the strawberry rhubarb and the peach. Next time I will absolutely get my hands on some mixed berry.

 

Devil’s Garden Trail at Arches National Park. Arches NP is a museum of geological curiosities, many of which I’ve never before encountered. This trail lets you get up close and personal with many of them, walking you through canyons and over rock fins. I dare you to count all the arches you spot along the way.

Great Sand Dunes National Park. SAND DUNES IN THE MIDDLE OF THE MOUNTAINS. THAT YOU CAN SLED ON. ‘Nuff said.

Park personnel. Everywhere we went we were greeted with friendly, knowledgeable rangers and staff who really seemed to be enjoying their jobs. A pandemic hasn’t made those jobs any easier, nor will the crowds surging in now that the pandemic is easing up in this country. Tip of the Smokey Bear hat to all of you for your excellent service.

THE FINE.

The historical parks. Tonto, Casa Grande, Tumacácori, Montezuma’s Well, Tuzigoot, Walnut Canyon – all of these National Monuments had interesting things to offer, but nothing that really made my heart speed up. Any one of them can be successfully visited in an hour or less, so they’re well worth a stop if you have the time. If your time is limited, you’ll be totally okay picking out just a couple to visit, which will give you a good flavor of what most have to offer. (History buffs: do what you have to do.)

Not taking enough time. We visited a couple of parks without the time available to really soak them in. We got to see them, which may not have been the case if we’d waited for circumstances to be perfect, but given the choice, don’t short-change yourself on time to visit these jewels of American geography and culture. Petrified Trees? Saguaro? Everything in Utah? I hope we’ll be back some day. Just in case we’re not: thanks for the moments we got to spend with you!

 

Eating SO MANY peanut butter sandwiches. Look, I love peanut butter, but next time I need to find a way to bring more variety along on my hiking lunches.

THE BAD.

The crowds. Zion was by far the most crowded spot we visited on this trip, with hundreds of people shimmying up and down the chains to Angel’s Landing and choking the shuttle system, but we also bumped into traffic jams and full parking lots at Grand Canyon, Canyonlands, and Arches. Crowds are inevitable in a world where people are just getting out after having been cooped up for more than a year, and where air travel is still not appealing. Set your expectations and be prepared to be patient. Remember that you, too, are part of the crowd and that you all deserve to be visiting these marvelous parks. It’s okay to meditate on questions of overuse, but don’t let yourself get too worked up about it. If you need more nature and fewer friends to share it with, there are many roads less traveled. A little research ahead of time can save you a lot of heartache and starting early (I mean REALLY early) is always a good bet.


The ice cream.
C’mon, Arizona and Utah. The Wyoming parks have you absolutely schooled on this point. Get with the game! Hot hikers deserve delicious ice cream.

Hiking up sand dunes. Collapsed in the sand midway up our last dune was the only time on this entire trip I felt actively unhappy. Climbing up a giant pile of sand is way harder than you think. It will crush your soul.

Do it anyway.

THE UGLY.

Not a thing, actually. That moment on the sand dune was the one and only miserable part of the trip, and once I got to the top of the dune all was forgiven. I imagine visiting these parks during peak season might create a lot more opportunity for ugliness, but the same comment as above applies: come prepared to be patient. Other helpful tips: Be as flexible as possible. Take opportunities that present themselves. Open up to feeling wonder. Carry bear spray. (Well, probably not in these parks, but in my next parks…..)

 


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